Monday, March 24, 2008

Mt. Imitos Promenade

Two weeks ago, while two good friends from Oregon – Vernon & Rosy – were visiting me in Athens, a group of my classmates organized a Sunday afternoon hike to (nearly) the top of Mount Imitos. Imitos is a broad mountain, which lies to the west of the city, not far from our apartment. It was a beautiful, sunny day, so we got some nice views of Athens and of the sea (to the SW). Here are some pics from our stroll:
.

L-R: Laurent, Emma (front), Marion (back), Xavier, Fernando, François, Antoine, Nora, Filippo, Scott, Rosy (photo by V. Reitz)
.

Lunch break near the peak
.

On top of the world (photo by R. Mazaika)
.

Eastward toward Athens
.

Trees & concrete (photo by R. Mazaika)
.

Facing southwest (Aegean Sea reflecting sunlight at the middle-left)

Greek alphabet… or rather alpha-veet

Ever since my arrival in Athens, I’ve had a goal of learning to read Greek. Now, that doesn’t mean I have any illusions that I’ll actually learn to speak Greek in four months… but it means that when I see street or storefront signs spelled with Greek letters, I should be able to properly pronounce these signs. As someone who’s studied a fair amount of math and science, I assumed (before arriving): “Greek letters, no problem: there’s alpha & beta, gamma & deltamu [myoo], nu [nyoo], pi [pie], rho [row], & sigmaphi, psi, theta, zeta… a few other obscure letters… & finally omega.”
.

What I didn’t realize is that we, non-Greeks have been taught pre-modern (and in some cases: simply wrong) pronunciations for the Greek letters we use in math and science formulas (or for fraternity/sorority names). Here are a few examples of my surprises and confusions:
  • B/β isn’t pronounced “beta” or “baytah”; it’s “veeta”
  • Г/γ isn’t “gamma”; it’s “rhahmah” (starting with a French-sounding guttural “r”); but if followed by I/ι or E/ε, it sounds like the English “y” (as in “yo, baby”); if it’s doubled (γγ) it sounds like “ng”, as in “hang loose”; if it’s paired with a kappa – γκ – then, and only then, do you pronounce it as a hard “g” (as in “gimme, gimme”)
  • “Delta” (Δ/δ) is actually pronounced “thelta” (a voiced “th”, as in “these”)
  • Θ/θ is theta – pronounced “thaytah” (an unvoiced “th”, as in “thanks”); this is actually the way we’re taught to pronounce this letter in school… but it’s a little confusing, because there’s such a small, subtle difference between this sound and the “th” sound made by Δ/δ.
  • M/μ isn’t pronounced “moo” or “myoo” but “mee”
  • N/ν, likewise, is “nee” (as in “the knights who say…”), not “noo” or “nyoo”
  • T/τ doesn’t rhyme with “cow” (as in “Townsend”); it’s pronounced “tahv” or “tahf”
  • If you want to make an English “b” sound in Greek, you have to use a letter combo: MΠ/μπ
  • P/ρ is rho (pronounced like a Spanish “r”), not like “p”, as it looks
  • If you have the equivalent of an English “s” (Σ/σ, pronounced “seegh-mah”) at the end of a word (when written in lower case), the letter takes a different form: ς.
  • There are (at least) six letters and letter combinations which make the “ee” [i] sound in Greek: H, I, Y, OI, EI, YI (η, ι, υ, oι, ει, υι)
  • If you see the letter Y/υ, it can be pronounced “ee”, “oo”, or “f”, depending on adjacent vowels (Y or YI = “ee”; OY = “oo”; AY = “af”; EY = “ef”)
  • All Greek letters that we typically pronounce with a long "i" sound (as in "high") -- phi, pi, psi, & chi -- actually have the "ee" sound (e.g. fee, pee, psee, & khee)

In addition to confusion over letters, the Greek words for “yes” and “no” sound remarkably like their English opposites: NAI [pronounced neh] means “yes”… while OXI [pronounced approximately like okie, as in “okie-dokie”] means “no”.

But one helpful thing about Greek pronunciation: If a word (with more than one syllable) is written in lower case, an accent mark is always placed over the vowel within the stressed/accented syllable. So when you see the word for “thank you” in writing – ευχαριστώ [pronounced ehf-hah-ree-STOH] – you can tell by the accent mark that you’re supposed to emphasize the last syllable, “STOH”.

Now that you’ve had a quick lesson in reading Greek, here are a few words to let you test your Greek sign-reading skills. All of the following words are also used in English (but sometimes the Greek version has an additional flourish at the end, such as “a”, “i”, “o”, “as”, or “os”). I’ve tried to arrange them from easiest to hardest:

  1. καφέ
  2. oύζo
  3. Aθήνα
  4. ταβέρνα
  5. Aκρόπολις
  6. Kόρινθος
  7. μπύρα
  8. Mαραθώνας
  9. αρχαιολογία
  10. αμφιθέτρο

Ready for the answers? Scroll down a few lines…
.

.

.

.

  1. καφέ 8 café [kah-FAY]
  2. oύζo 8 ouzo [OO-zoh] (licorice-flavored Greek liquor)
  3. Aθήνα 8 Athena [ah-THEE-nah] (a.k.a. Athens; also the goddess)
  4. ταβέρνα 8 taverna [tah-VEHR-nah] (Greek for tavern/pub)
  5. Aκρόπολις 8 Acropolis [ah-CROW-poh-lease]
  6. Kόρινθος 8 Corinthos [COH-rin-thoce] (Greek for the city of Corinth)
  7. μπύρα 8 bira [BEE-rah] (Greek for beer)
  8. Mαραθώνας 8 Marathonas [mah-rah-THONE-ahs] (Greek for the city of Marathon)
  9. αρχαιολογία 8 archaeologia [ar-kheh-oh-low-HYEE-ah] (Greek for archaeology)
  10. αμφιθέτρο 8 amphithetro [ahm-fee-THEH-troh] (Greek for amphitheater)

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Wintery Athenian Wonderland

Although it probably didn't make the headlines in your city's newspaper or get coverage in your local 6pm news, Athens had quite a winter snowstorm a few weeks ago. Since the weather had been so sunny and warm when I'd arrived (early Feb.), it was quite a surprise that Apollo would allow such a winter spell. We got dumped on by 7-8" (18-20cm) of snow within an 18-hour period and had sub-freezing temps for two days, during which our university classes were canceled. Apparently such winter weather isn't completely unheard of in Athens, but it only comes along once every five years or so. Here are some pics of February in Athens, North Dakota:
.

View from our apt. window on the morning after the big snow (photo by F. Veynandt)
.

Yes, those are palm trees and fruit-filled orange trees covered in snow
.

Me, jogging in a park near our apartment (photo by F. Veynandt)

Friday, March 14, 2008

And now… to Greece


.

On February 2, I moved to Athens. After their week with me in Oldenburg, my parents traveled with me (by air) to Athens for a week of Greek site-seeing. We spent a couple of days relaxing in Athens (and I moved my belongings into my apartment). Here are a couple of photos of the Parthenon atop the Acropolis.
.

The Parthenon by night…
.


And by day (from a different angle)
.
At the Athenian equivalent of the “tomb of the unknown soldier” in front of the Parliament building, two military soldiers always stand guard at the memorial. They wear traditional garb, which is apparently based on the uniforms of mountain fighters, who fought in Greece’s War of Independence. Once every hour, there is a brief “changing of the guard” ceremony. And then on Sunday mornings at 11am, there’s a bigger ceremony with a parade and a military band.

.

“Changing of the guard” ceremony on Sunday morning in Syntagma [Constitution] Square
.

On Tuesday, Feb. 5, we drove south to Peloponnese and visited some familiar-sounding, ancient places – Corinth, Epidavros, Mycenae. Then we stayed the night in a beautiful coastal town called Nafplio.
.


A hilltop wind farm, as viewed from near Nafplio
.


One of Nafplio’s three fortresses
.


Sunset in Nafplio harbor
.
On Wednesday we drove around six hours northwest (past Athens) into the Sterea Ellada region to arrive in Kalambaka, near Meteora. Meteora is an otherworldly, beautiful place that’s difficult to describe in words… Basically, millions of years ago, due to a combination of tectonic plate movements and weathering from the sea (which is no longer present in the area), the towering vertical rock formations of Meteora were formed. Starting in the 15th century, monks began constructing monasteries atop the cliffs. There are seven monasteries at Meteora, but each has different public opening days, so we visited three. Here are some photos from the area:
.


.

.

.

.
On Thursday we traveled south and stayed in the city of Delphi. Delphi’s ancient city is particularly scenic, because it’s perched on the side of a mountain, with a spectacular view.
.

View of the Gulf of Corinth and city of Itea from modern Delphi
.


Vista from ancient Delphi ruins
.

We returned to Athens on Friday, Feb. 8, and my parents flew back homeward to Kentucky on the next morning.

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Final week in Oldenburg

My parents visited me in Oldenburg during my last week there. They entertained themselves and explored my quaint NW-German college town by day (as I studied and took final exams). In the evenings we had dinner together at Oldenburg's various eateries. One night, I took my parents to eat döners [Turkish gyros] at the "Döner Haus" near my dormitory. This was my favorite local eatery during my Oldenburg tenure. The Döner Haus chef (see pic below) makes the most succulent, flavorful gyro sandwiches (with lots of spicy hot sauce, upon request) -- they're extremely addictive!

.

Me & the Döner Haus master chef (photo by M. Townsend)
.
At the end of the last week -- on the day before we flew out of the country -- the a cappella group I'd sung with throughout the semester, Jaco de Musio, presented on a combined concert with another Oldenburg group, Quintessence. My dad video-recorded a couple of our songs from the concert, over which I've superimposed the better quality audio recorded by Joe Dinkelbach (husband of our alto, Britta). I had difficulty uploading the videos to this blog, so I've uploaded them to my MySpace page here: www.myspace.com/scotttown (click "videos" below my picture in the upper left).